frequently asked questions

Have a burning question? We've got answers for you!

- bore repairs -

The cost of repairing a bore depends on many factors, and can range anywhere from a couple of hundred to many thousands of dollars.

Our expert technicians can give you a free quote and evaluation.

We will also let you know if your insurance company might be able to help you out with the cost.

There are a number of reasons your bore could be not working, and one of our bore electricians would need to come out and give a free quote to answer this question.

However, here are some of the most common faults:
  • Motor Fusion
  • Motor Seize
  • Impeller stack disassembly
  • Water ingress into wiring
  • Air into water supply pipes
  • DOL short
  • Capacitors exploding
  • Stations fail and output mainline exploding
  • Curcuit breaker failure
  • Wiring damage
  • Controller failure

Some electrical damage may be covered by your home and contents insurance policies.

This depends on what the problem is and how much the bore pump is worth as to whether it is possible or worthwhile.

Electrical failures on submersible pumps cannot be fixed as the motors are a waterproof unit and if they are opened, they become unusable.

With centrifugals, sometimes they can be rewound, but then the cost needs to be considered as it may be close to the cost of replacement, so a new pump would be the best solution.

If it is a very expensive old Stalker, then it becomes more financially viable to consider a rewind of the motor.

There are a lot of other faults that can happen and each one needs to be considered on its independent merits. Our experienced technicians can provide a free quote and advice on the best course of action for you.

This is a problem that mostly occurs with centrifugal bore wells as they need to have water in them and in a constant flow down to the water table.

This water seal (prime) is held in place by check valves, PVC pipe with glued joints, threaded fittings, pump impeller housings and mechanical seals.

Also the water supply (screen) and depth to water can play a part, especially if there is sand or rust getting pulled through the check valve.

We would need to have a look to give you a better idea as to what is going on with your pump in particular, as technically this should not be happening.

- bore installs -

This varies depending on a few factors:

  • Depth to water
  • The ground we are drilling through
  • The ease of connecting the services (water and electrics)
  • The simple answer is usually anywhere from $3,000-8,000, with our median pricing sitting around $4,300 (all services included).

However, we would need to know the specifics to quote for you as your project could be less or more expensive. Send us an email or give us a call, and we can work it out for you.

This depends on a few things. To install, you will need a drill rig, but even if it is just a repair job, whether the bore is a submersible or centrifugal, you will need to be electrically licensed to do the job legally. If the bore is centrifugal and deeper than 1.8 meters, you will need a second person, and you will both need working at heights and confined spaces tickets.

People have died working on centrifugal bores, and they require a lot of equipment to be worked on safely and legally. If it is a submersible bore and you have an electrical license, you will want to be familiar with bore pump models, as there are thousands of them. You should also be familiar with submersible heat shrink or epoxy kits.

You will want to be sure of the diagnosis and potential causes of the damage, so it does not happen again due to a fault on the solenoid wiring or iron bacteria blocking up the screen.

On a new install, you will want to correctly spec the pump as a pressure and flow water supply to the system and, depending on the bore pump you choose, what safety features you need to install. For instance, if it is a Grundfos SQ, it will be less important to have a pressure release valve in case of a solenoid failure, as it has its safety features built into the electrics of the pump.

A new install will likely last decades. This varies on a few things like how much water is being pulled through the screens, if the water is heavy with sediment, and if you have used a PVC or a stainless steel screen. If the screen is stainless steel, it will last longer but be more expensive at the installation.

Trees can also bring bore wells to an untimely death as their roots crush the construction, making it impossible to get a pump up or down the well. Additionally, if a tree’s roots infiltrate the screen itself, you may experience blocking issues over time.

There is natural movement of the water table from the beginning of summer to the end. Additionally, there is variation due to a large volume of water being pumped from the water table. As a result, you will want the bore well drilled to a depth of 12 meters into the water table.

This allows the pump to be placed above the screen, so water is still being pulled over the motor to keep it cool, preventing overheating and decreasing its life expectancy. It also positions the pump 5 or 6 meters below the top of the water, allowing some drawdown while it is running and accommodating water table movement.

Different areas in Perth have been affected differently by the increased use of bore wells, but the process is being monitored and managed by the WA Government. To date, it has not had a major impact on most areas of Perth.

You can look up the depth to water at your property HERE.

This depends on:

  • Your location (type of substrate under your property)
  • Size and type of screen used (standard is 6m slotted PVC, but stainless steel will allow more water in, and doubling the length will also allow more water in. In more extreme cases, increasing the diameter of the well will also greatly increase the flow.)
  • The availability of water on the supply side of the bore well; in this case, the flow and pressure will be dictated by the pump used.

A standard submersible bore will provide around 80 litres per minute at a good enough pressure to run a reticulation system. Rarely is it useful to have better flow than this for a domestic property.
Usually, it takes between one day and one week, though the total time may depend on the availability of the different trades involved in the installation.
A flow rate of 80 litres per minute at adequate pressure to operate a reticulation system is pretty standard for a new installation in Perth.

- bore cleaning -

No, water bores generally do not require regular maintenance.

However, there are some instances when maintenance is necessary, such as if the bore has an iron bacteria infection. This issue is relatively common in Perth and around the world.

If this occurs in your system, we will need to diagnose the problem, clean the well, and set up a system for you to maintain the bore well and keep it clean.
Iron bacteria can significantly reduce pressure in a bore system and may eventually cause a complete failure of the pump, as it overheats while trying to pull water through the buildup.

Another indication of iron bacteria is slimy deposits blocking up sprinklers. When we come to assess the situation, we will haul the pump up and determine if it is infected or not.

- retic repairs -

If it is a bore reticulation system, then switch off the bore and contact us. It’s likely to be a controller or DOL fault.

If it is a scheme system, then the master valve and a station valve have failed you or the controller is broken. Just give us a call and we will sort it out.
If this is a bore retic system, just call us and we will come out and take a look for free.

If it is a scheme system, then the problems will most likely be either master valve failure, wiring break, controller fault or water supply (cut in) fault.

Just give us a call and we will come and sort it out.
Either the sprinklers are not working and/or there are plants dying; or ther may be constant water flow, or sand pushed up under paving or out the side of driveways.

Faulty irrigation systems can also trip your circuit breakers, depending on what the problem is.

Our team of experienced and qualified technicians are experts at diagnosing and repairing reticulation systems, so just give us a call.
Yes, getting a regular retic checkup and service is a good idea.

Many customers get us in once or twice a year to checkover, which helps catch any issues early before they become a bigger problem.
Different sprinklers do have different watering times. See the table below for more information:

- retic installs -

Bore watering days and scheme watering days are now the same. CLICK HERE to determine your watering days.
We need to clarify whether this is low water pressure or low water flow, as these are different questions with different answers.

For low water pressure below 150 kPa for garden bed stations, drip line systems or pot stakes are among the best available options.

If it is low flow, we need to determine how low and if it is practical to use, but we might go for MP 2000s for lawn areas.

Sometimes, if the flow and/or pressure make a system not practical to use, we will install either a bore or a water tank and pressure pump on the system to increase its performance.
There are many different sprinklers, each excelling in specific conditions.

  • Low water flow scheme water or large domestic areas with limited flow would use MP rotators.
  • Bore systems would use either standard performance heads or RVAN nozzles, which work much better for bores than sediment-sensitive MP rotators.
  • If the area is larger and has the pressure to power them, gear drives are worth considering.
  • Generally, we use 3p pop-ups, but if broken sprinklers in a traffic area are a concern, we will use articulated risers, flexi pipe, gear drives, or 4p pop-ups if possible to lower them into the ground.

Each system must be judged independently to determine what would be best.
We use standard drip line as little as possible. In lawns, it is a maintenance nightmare that unfolded throughout the 2000s as companies tried to push drip line in lawns using fabric coatings to prevent root ingress and then herbicides dripping through them to keep them clear, which was ridiculous.

Even in garden beds, their sensitivity to sediment was a problem, with filters, flush valves, and vacuum breakers all requiring maintenance and flush valves particularly prone to failure. The sediment issue makes it somewhere between useless and actually detrimental on bore systems.

One exception is what we call bore drip line. This type of drip line is even recommended for narrow garden beds. It has much higher flow rates and wider apertures, meaning sediment is no longer an issue. This allows it to run without filters, vacuum breakers, or flush valves, even on bore systems. And also makes it much more reliable in garden beds.

We will never install any type of drip into a lawn area.
This depends on the precipitation rate of your sprinklers. Generally, we aim to get an even 10mm over an area. Spectrums are about the same as micro sprays, and RVANs are about the same as gear drives.
Costs range from $1,000 in a small courtyard to $7,500 for most small to very large installs, although some may be much bigger or require a bore to be installed as well. The best thing to do is contact us to arrange a free quote.

- retic controllers -

  • Hunter Pro HC (Wi-Fi) is the best we use, and it has been installed at my house for this reason.
  • It is followed by Hunter X2 (Wi-Fi optional) and Xcore (Non-Wi-Fi) as cheaper alternatives.
  • Rainbird ESPME2 (Wi-Fi optional) is an excellent controller, and when they become available again, Irritrol Raindials (Non-Wi-Fi) are the rock-solid tank of controllers.
You can find some pretty cheap ones at Bunnings. Just like Pope sprinklers, don’t expect them to last very long, and you won’t be disappointed. Orbit B-hyves are a very affordable Wi-Fi controller, and if you are installing this with a bore, also get the Orbit Relay unit, as the controller struggles with bore contactors.
The cost of replacing your retic/sprinkler controller can vary depending on the type of controller you choose, the number of zones in your garden, and any additional features you may need.

Usually, it is in the range of $360 to $1,200 to supply and install a new reticulation controller.

You can get in touch with us for a free quote.
We stand behind the quality of our work and offer a reliable warranty on all our retic controller replacement services. Our warranty covers all workmanship for 12 months and the controllers are covered by their manufacturer’s warranty, giving you peace of mind and assurance that your retic system is in good hands.
Yes, in addition to retic controller replacement services, we also offer maintenance and repair services for reticulation systems. Our technicians can diagnose and repair any issues with your system, helping to keep it running smoothly and efficiently. Check out our retic repairs page HERE.
Yes, we can install a new retic/irrigation controller on an existing system. Our technicians will assess your system and determine the best controller to ensure optimal performance and efficiency. CONTACT US for a free quote.
Our experienced technicians will work with you to determine your specific needs and help you choose the right controller for your garden. Factors to consider include the number of zones in your garden, the amount of water required for each zone, and any additional features you may need. CONTACT US now for a free quote.

- turf installations -

The cost of laying new turf in Perth depends on the area, the amount of preparation required, and the type of lawn. There is too much variation for me to provide even an indicative price range. The best thing to do is CONTACT US for an assessment.
The optimal time to lay turf is late winter to early spring, but we successfully lay lawns all year round.
The three main types we use are Wintergreen Couch, Kikuyu, and Palmetto soft leaf Buffalo. Couch and Kikuyu are more affordable. Couch, when well-maintained, can look like a golf course green. If not, it can grow through cracks in bricks, concrete, and invade garden beds, making it difficult to control without resorting to chemical treatments.

Kikuyu is easier to control and the most water-efficient of the three. However, it requires regular mowing; otherwise, it can become very thick and challenging to trim back without damaging it.

Palmetto is a very nice, soft grass that can tolerate some shade. It produces seeds once a year, which are softer compared to other buffalo grasses but harder than other grass types. Palmetto is the thirstiest of all the grasses and needs watering before the others do.

- generals q's -

We are a mobile service and take care of most suburbs within Perth, Western Australia. CONTACT US to check if we service your area and how we can assist you.

For tips and updates follow us on Insta @allwestboresretic

the Gram

find us on